Clear the room of any furniture and floor sanding items, you may also want to cover any other areas such as shelves to protect them from dust using dustsheets. Remove any existing floor covering such as carpet or tiles and expose the wood flooring to be restores, once you ‘re sure your wooden floor is free from all protruding tacks, nails, staples and so on you are ready to start sanding. Prior to doing this, the room should be vacuumed thoroughly.


Now it's time to choose what a grade of sandpaper to start with. Sanding sheets and disks are graded using the grade rate. The sanding machine can look very daunting if you have never used it before but fear not. Fit the sanding sheets to the top of the sander in accordance with the instructions supplied by your hire shop. You will see the grade number on the reverse of the sanding sheets and the higher the number the finer the sandpaper. For a very rough or uneven wooden floor you may want to start sanding using rough grit paper such as 24 grit.


I have chosen 40 grit sandpaper for the initial sanding. You attach the dust bag and you must change it occasionally and needs to be changed when full. Now we’re ready to start sanding the floor. Hold the sander, start the machine in this position, very slowly lower the sander and start walking forward along the grain.


You will see the old varnish being sanded off, walk slowly as you sand giving you a clear indication where you have and have not been. As you come to the end of the room length start raising the machine so not touching the floor. Once you have evenly sanded the floor using the coarse grit paper you can progress to the second and third sanding stage respectively.

Now to sanding the edges from 40 grit to 60, 80 and 120 grit, apply the same process when sanding the edges with the edge sander, when using the edge sander be careful not to leave swell marks in the floor, this can be avoided by keeping the sander moving which blends the edge sanding in to the sanding carried out earlier on the main floor area. By the time you finish no traces of the original varnish should be present.


This stage-buffering machine is used to finish buff. The floor and horizontal surfaces such as window ledges must be vacuumed thoroughly to remove all traces of dust. Cleaning between coats is vital.



Now we’re coming to varnishing off the floor. We are applying the first coat; be careful not to leave overlap marks. Varnish should be applied thinly. The varnish will dry in four to six hours or you can leave it to dry overnight which is what I have done.


We normally buff with 120 grit mesh between first and second coat to achieve a smoother finish. Once dry the first coat may look slightly patchy. This is normal and will improve after the second coat. Buff again. The second coat can be applied in the same manner as the first; again allow to dry overnight so maximum hardness is reached. The third coat can be applied in the same manner once dried it is then safe to return the furniture to the room usually after 24hrs.


Thank you for purchasing Varnish Solutions products. We hope you have found this informative and that you enjoy the process and your new wooden floor for many years to come. Please check out our website for full list of specialist maintenance products you can use to keep your floor looking beautiful for many years to come.